As the most exclusive week in fashion approaches, couture houses brace for a historic shake-up—Balenciaga’s goodbye to Demna, Glenn Martens’ bold new chapter at Margiela, and the arrival of unexpected new voices on the runway. The Fall/Winter 2025 edition of Paris Haute Couture Week is shaping up to be one of the most transformative in recent memory. The Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode has released a tightly curated calendar filled with notable absences, surprising returns, and game-changing moments. All eyes will be on two major creative milestones: Demna’s final couture collection for Balenciaga and Glenn Martens’ debut at Maison Margiela’s Artisanal line.Set against a backdrop of unprecedented creative director musical chairs, this season’s shows will redefine what couture means in a time of flux, introspection, and reinvention.
Demna closes a disruptive chapter at Balenciag
On July 10 at noon, the fashion world will witness the end of an era as Demna takes his final bow at Balenciaga. Since his appointment, the Georgian designer has completely transformed the house’s aesthetic—turning it from heritage-heavy into hypermodern, street-savvy, and at times, provocatively dystopian. Now, after nearly a decade, Demna is departing the storied house founded in 1919 for his next challenge: a new creative chapter at Gucci.
His successor? Pierpaolo Piccioli, formerly the co-creative force behind Valentino, who is expected to bring a more romantic, emotionally-driven vision to Balenciaga. For now, however, anticipation is building around Demna’s swan song. Will it be a retrospective celebration of his signature silhouettes and social commentary, or something more subversive? One thing is certain: fashion history will be made at that midday show.
Glenn Martens begins a radical new era at Maison Margiela
If one chapter is ending, another is just beginning. On the same day at 7:30 p.m., Belgian designer Glenn Martens will present his inaugural Artisanal couture collection for Maison Margiela. Known for his experimental, sculptural work at Y/Project and his revitalization of Diesel, Martens brings a fiercely innovative energy to Margiela—a house that has always embraced deconstruction, anonymity, and avant-garde storytelling.
Following the long and dramatic legacy of John Galliano at the couture house, Martens is stepping into high expectations. But if his ready-to-wear collections are any indication, his Margiela will be no less theatrical. His Artisanal debut is expected to reestablish the brand as couture’s most radical voice—one rooted in craftsmanship, but unafraid to question every stitch and silhouette.
A runway shaped by transformation
This year’s calendar is also notable for its shifting lineup. Chanel will present its final in-house collection before Matthieu Blazy, currently creative director at Bottega Veneta, officially takes over in October. The French house’s two shows on July 9 will serve as a reflective interlude before Blazy’s fresh vision takes shape.
Meanwhile, Jean Paul Gaultier and Dior—two of couture week’s biggest names—are sitting this season out. Gaultier’s house has taken a creative pause following Duran Lantink’s recent appointment as its new permanent creative director. Dior’s absence marks a significant transition, as Maria Grazia Chiuri recently exited with a Cruise 2026 collection in Rome, passing the torch to Jonathan Anderson of Loewe fame. Expect major debuts next season.
Still, mainstays like Giambattista Valli, Elie Saab, Viktor & Rolf, Zuhair Murad, and Stéphane Rolland will ensure that couture’s glamour core remains intact—even as the overall tone leans toward disruption and change.
Fresh faces and rising couture stars
The Fall/Winter 2025 schedule isn’t just about farewells. New talents and re-emerging names are also grabbing the spotlight. Rami Al Ali, a Syrian designer based in Dubai, will make his official Paris couture debut on July 10 at 2:30 p.m., bringing his refined, East-meets-West aesthetic to the week’s roster.
Returning innovators include Iris Van Herpen, Robert Wun, Adeline André, and ArdAzAei, all of whom represent couture’s expanding vision—where tech, performance, and sustainability share the stage with embroidery and silk. Van Herpen, whose sculptural creations often blend science and surrealism, remains one of couture’s most forward-thinking designers.
Also noteworthy is Giorgio Armani Privé, hosting two back-to-back shows on July 8, and Viktor & Rolf, who continue to surprise with their theatrical takes on silhouette and proportion. Elie Saab, always a red carpet darling, will show his latest romantic vision on July 10.
Notable shows to watch
In addition to the headliners, a few shows promise to be especially buzzworthy. Schiaparelli, under Daniel Roseberry, will open the official schedule on July 8 at 10 a.m., setting the tone with his bold blend of surrealist nostalgia and modern drama. Rahul Mishra, Julie de Libran, and Imane Ayissi will also bring fresh global perspectives to the couture space.
Chanel’s dual presentations, along with a short film premiere at 2 p.m., will give us a glimpse of the house’s transition period—and possibly a teaser of the future under Blazy. Meanwhile, Maison Margiela’s finale slot on July 10 promises a climactic conclusion to a packed and pivotal season.
The complete Paris haute couture fall/winter 2025 schedule
All times local to Paris.
Tuesday, July 8
Schiaparelli – 10:00 (Show & Digital)
Iris Van Herpen – 12:00
Georges Hobeika – 13:00
Imane Ayissi – 14:30
Rahul Mishra – 16:00
Julie de Libran – 17:30
Giambattista Valli – 19:30
Wednesday, July 9
Chanel – 10:00 & 12:00 (Film revealed at 14:00)
Stéphane Rolland – 14:30
Juana Martín – 15:30
Ashi Studio – 16:30
RVDK Ronald van der Kemp – 17:30
Giorgio Armani Privé – 18:30 & 19:30
Thursday, July 10
Robert Wun – 10:00
Franck Sorbier – 11:00
Balenciaga – 12:00
Yuima Nakazato – 13:30
Rami Al Ali – 14:30
Elie Saab – 14:30
Viktor & Rolf – 16:00
Zuhair Murad – 17:30
Maison Margiela – 19:30
A season where couture rewrites itself
As Paris prepares for another week of fashion history, it’s clear this season isn’t just about spectacle—it’s about metamorphosis. From monumental farewells to long-awaited debuts, the Fall/Winter 2025 Haute Couture collections are redefining the boundaries of luxury fashion. Whether you’re watching for nostalgia or novelty, this week will be one for the books.
