As Paris Fashion Week came to a close, Chanel delivered a show that was both a grand finale and a beautiful tribute to its own legacy. Before the “bow girl,” in all her coquettecore glory, became a trending fashion archetype, there was Chanel. This morning, the French house wrapped the Grand Palais in a massive black ribbon, a celebratory installation designed by Willo Perron that paid homage to one of the brand’s most beloved and enduring motifs. With stars like Tyla and Camila Cabello looking on, the in-house Creation Studio presented a collection that was a masterful blend of tradition and modernity, proving that the brand’s most classic codes will always be in fashion.
A Ribbon Runs Through It
The ribbon, a symbol that dates back to the very first creations of Gabrielle Chanel, was the undisputed star of the show. It was a motif that was woven into every aspect of the collection, both literally and figuratively. Jacket collars and cuffs were meticulously decorated with bows, some of which were of the clever trompe l’oeil variety, creating a playful illusion. A festive ribbon print swirled around dresses, lending them a sense of movement and celebration. To add to the spirited femininity, models sported jaunty bows in their hair, while classic white blouses were fastened with oversized pussy bows, an unapologetically bold statement. The use of the ribbon throughout the collection served as a powerful reminder of the brand’s rich history and its ability to reinterpret its most classic elements for a new generation.
Reimagining the Icons: Pearls and Tweed
Beyond the ribbon, the collection was a showcase of other core Chanel DNA, with the in-house design team reimagining them in new and exciting ways. The omnipresence of pearls was a tribute to Coco Chanel’s famous love for them. They were not only stacked in classic strings onto many of the looks but were also cleverly incorporated into accessories. Bags, for instance, featured strings of pearls that looked like a “gargantuan necklace had been slung over a shoulder,” a witty play on scale. The most innovative use of the pearl was found in the ankle boots, whose heels were one giant pearl, transforming a functional object into a piece of art. The classic bouclé and tweed fabrics were also showcased in modern cuts and silhouettes, with colorful patterns and sheer tulle overlays that kept the heritage fabrics feeling fresh and relevant. Matching boater-style hats completed some of the looks, serving as another nod to the brand’s storied past.
A Witty Play on Scale
What made this collection truly special was its clever and artistic manipulation of scale. The designers played with proportions to create a sense of both drama and whimsy. This was evident not only in the oversized accessories, such as the gargantuan pearl boots and necklace bags, but also in the subtle details. The camellia, famously Coco’s favorite flower, was recreated in ribbon and worn around the collar of a sweater dress, transforming a small, delicate flower into a bold, sculptural element. This ability to make the small feel big and the familiar feel new is a hallmark of the Chanel aesthetic and a testament to the creativity of the design team. The collection was a visual feast, filled with a sense of playful confidence that was contagious.
A New Era Begins
The Chanel Fall/Winter 2025 show was a momentous occasion, not just for its breathtaking clothes but also for what it represented: a respectful and beautiful closing of a significant chapter. This was the final collection presented by the in-house Creation Studio, as incoming artistic director Matthieu Blazy is set to present his first show in October. The collection was a perfect bridge, honoring the brand’s enduring legacy while also hinting at a new direction. By flawlessly celebrating the iconic codes of the house—the ribbon, the pearls, the tweed—the team proved that the brand’s DNA is strong enough to carry it into its next era. As the curtains fell on this show, and on Paris Fashion Week, the brand was officially tied up with a bow, ready to begin its next chapter.
