MB&F, renowned for its audacious and unconventional horology, unveils its smallest and slimmest watch ever — the Special Project One. A striking departure from its wild machines, this time-only dress watch blends simplicity and complexity in a truly unique way.
A compact Marvel from MB&F
MB&F, a brand synonymous with bold and avant-garde timepieces, has just introduced its most compact watch to date. Dubbed the Special Project One (SP One), this is a refined, time-only dress watch with a 38mm case available in platinum or 18K rose gold. Although the term “dress watch” might sound conventional, the SP One defies typical expectations while embracing elegant simplicity.
The watch features a pebble-shaped case that seemingly floats inside its detached lugs, connected only to the caseback, creating a light and graceful silhouette. Measuring 38mm in diameter and 12mm thick, the SP One is by no means thin by traditional dress watch standards. However, it is notably slim for MB&F, known for its large, complex machines. The crown is discreetly placed at 10 o’clock, reinforcing the understated aesthetic.
The movement: The heart of the SP one
The true essence of the SP One lies in its movement, a fully in-house caliber developed specifically for this model. Rather than a traditional dial, the SP One showcases three interconnected floating circles representing the barrel, balance wheel, and dial — a design inspired by a simple sketch focusing on three circles within a dial.
The dial itself is a small, brushed black circle positioned at 6 o’clock, finished with a DLC-treated sunray effect and adorned with faceted hour numerals. The hands, skeletonized and hand-textured with a tremblage finish, enhance legibility despite their delicate size. Achieving this required an additional mechanical complexity, including conical gearing to drive the inclined dial.
Surrounding the floating circles is a three-spoked bridge that visually unites the design elements while concealing much of the movement’s components beneath. The architecture combines contemporary innovation with classical hand-finishing techniques: gold chatons around jewels, exquisitely beveled wheels, and a finish reminiscent of haute horlogerie’s finest traditions.
A fusion of simplicity and brand identity
While the SP One’s external design leans towards minimalism, the movement remains deeply rooted in MB&F’s creative DNA. Internally, the caliber is framed by a beveled flange known as the “amphitheater,” offering a subtle splash of color — sky blue for the platinum model and anthracite for the rose gold variant. Both the front and back of the case feature sapphire crystals with anti-reflective coating, offering an unobstructed view of the finely crafted movement and, if you look closely, your own wrist hairs. This transparency echoes MB&F’s desire to fuse artistry with mechanical mastery.
Practicality meets elegance
Priced at $76,000 for the rose gold version and $82,000 for the platinum model, the SP One positions itself in the upper echelons of luxury watchmaking. It’s available through select MB&F retailers worldwide and does not come as a limited edition, making it an accessible yet exclusive option for collectors.
The watch boasts a manual winding movement with a 72-hour power reserve, running at a serene 2.5 Hz frequency. It offers hours and minutes functions only — embracing the purity of time-telling, unburdened by complications. Water resistance is rated modestly at 30 meters, suitable for everyday wear but not aquatic adventures.Complementing the elegant case is a supple calfskin strap, balancing comfort and luxury seamlessly.
Reflections on the SP One: A milestone for MB&F
As MB&F celebrates its twentieth anniversary, the Special Project One stands out as a thoughtful milestone. It is a departure from the brand’s famously whimsical and theatrical creations such as the Horological Machines and Legacy Machines, instead delivering a watch that is more reserved yet no less innovative.
Seeing the watch in person reveals just how well MB&F balanced its dimensions. Despite the 12mm thickness, it wears compact and refined — a testament to clever engineering and design. The only minor critique is the open caseback, which leaves a large empty space around the floating movement, potentially drawing attention to a watch tan or skin imperfections. A tinted sapphire caseback could have mitigated this, but it’s a small quibble in an otherwise stunning timepiece.
The art of simplicity in a wild world
MB&F has earned its reputation by redefining what watches can be, often with bold case shapes and complex movements full of kinetic sculptures. The SP One proves that the brand’s ethos is not limited to flamboyance but can also manifest in refined understatement.
This watch does not spark childlike whimsy nor make grand theatrical statements. Instead, it condenses MB&F’s spirit into the smallest, most conventional-looking piece in its lineup — a “special project” that challenges the notion of what a dress watch from a radical brand can be. For collectors and enthusiasts who admired MB&F’s creativity but desired something more traditional and wearable daily, the SP One offers an inspired compromise.
MB&F’s Special Project One marks a new chapter — proving that high horology can be simultaneously bold and understated. It offers collectors a rare chance to wear a true MB&F creation that fits seamlessly under a cuff, yet still carries the brand’s hallmark innovation and craftsmanship.
