Once a steadfast skeptic of kimchi and all things fermented cabbage, William Sitwell embarks on a culinary journey that transforms his palate and perspective at Dongnae, a vibrant new Korean restaurant nestled on Bristol’s Chandos Road. Here, tradition meets innovation through a menu bursting with bold flavours, from delicate sashimi to fiery grilled wagyu, all served in a welcoming space that captures the spirit of a lively university town. Join William as he rediscovers Korean cuisine in a way that’s fresh, exciting, and utterly unforgettable.
A reluctant convert to kimchi
For years, I was a sworn kimchi refusenik. The fermented cabbage of Korean cuisine was my nemesis, partly because cabbage was the vegetable trauma of my childhood — overcooked and relentlessly forced upon me. Then, as Korean food exploded into trendy London pop-ups about 15 years ago, kimchi became ubiquitous. I watched as every tattooed, bearded hipster served up this fermented ferment, apparently dug up from Hackney allotments and left to stew in chili before making its way to the plate. I stayed resolutely aloof.
Yet, here I was in Bristol, eyeing kimchi warily on the menu of Dongnae, a Korean gem whose very name means “neighbourhood.” The restaurant sits on Chandos Road and offers a menu packed with small plates, charcoal grill dishes, banchan (side dishes), shiksa (mains), and just two desserts. Inside, the space contrasts a classic Victorian shopfront with sleek, handcrafted wooden cabinetry and bright white tables. The open kitchen is visible through wooden slats, and the service—friendly, helpful—is infused with that youthful optimism you get in a university town.
A feast of flavours and textures
My meal began with line-caught gilt-head bream sashimi, delicate and translucent with a tenderness that dreamt of the sea, paired perfectly with wasabi. Then came the skewers of monkfish and octopus, glazed in gochucumin—a warming, fiery mix of red chili and cumin—and topped with crunchy chives, balancing spice and sweetness brilliantly.
Curiosity led me to try the salted jellyfish naengchae, a cold salad mingling pork hock and Devon crab. The crab lent a subtle sweetness, while the pork and leafy greens worked hard to disguise the jellyfish’s rubbery, chewy, and seawater-tinged texture. It was a brave move on my part, a culinary experiment to spare you the same fate. To be honest, I’d have preferred a jellyfish sting.
But the meal’s true highlight was the wagyu strip loin, a sumptuous centrepiece grilled to perfection and presented on a sleek wooden and wire mesh board. Rich, buttery, and meltingly tender, the beef came with an array of sides—raw garlic, chilli, and crisp salad leaves—that let you tailor each bite. Wrapping these elements together delivered what I can only describe as the freshest spring shower of a feast imaginable.
Kimchi’s redemptive power
The kimchi arrived next: rich, hot, and packed with the kind of exotic texture that made me regret my years of refusal. Alongside it came dongchimi, a fresher, milder kimchi brined in a clear broth, which refreshed the palate. These two dishes together slapped me into culinary humility, making me appreciate the craft and tradition behind them.
There was also a plate of Korean fried wings glazed with chilli seed, offering a satisfying crunch and heat, and a surprising dish of English asparagus dressed with shiokoji, hollandaise, and milky trout roe—an elegant fusion of Korean technique and local British produce.
To round off the meal, we had vanilla rice pudding topped with red bean, persimmon, and gonggaru (a Korean roasted grain powder). This dessert redeemed yet another childhood food fear, transforming rice pudding into a creamy, tart, and textured delight.
A perfect balance of vibe, price and flavour
From its thoughtfully curated menu and fresh, vibrant flavours to its welcoming atmosphere and clever design, Dongnae strikes a beautiful balance. It’s a restaurant that respects Korean tradition while embracing local ingredients and modern sensibilities. For anyone curious about Korean food or ready to challenge their own culinary prejudices, this Bristol newcomer offers a feast both exciting and forgiving.
