Bulgari’s latest high jewelry collection, Polychroma, dazzles with more than 600 creations featuring rare gemstones, intricate craftsmanship, and bold use of color—all inspired by a vibrant blend of cultures, eras, and artistic visions.
A kaleidoscopic debut in Taormina
In the heart of Taormina, Sicily, Bulgari hosted a grand gala dinner and fashion show to unveil its newest high jewelry and watch collection, Polychroma. After offering a glimpse of the collection at the Met Gala earlier this May, the Roman maison made its official reveal under the stars of the Sicilian coast, turning a historic town into a stage for colorful opulence.
Polychroma, derived from the Greek words poly (meaning “many”) and chroma (“colors”), is more than a name—it’s a philosophy. It embodies Bulgari’s celebration of color, plurality, and emotional resonance through gemstones. The collection spans high jewelry, watches, and even gemstone-set accessories like perfume bottles, purses, and eyewear.
According to Bulgari, the aim is to bridge eras and cultures in a kaleidoscopic universe where color evokes emotion, and each design speaks to the maison’s legacy of bold elegance. Of the over 600 pieces showcased, 250 are completely new, 60 are considered “millionaire products,” and five are extraordinary masterpieces featuring some of the rarest gemstones ever used by the brand.
Pushing the limits of luxury craftsmanship
Polychroma brings together 56 different gemstones in 16 shapes, presented in a variety of faceted, cabochon, and buff-top cuts. This chromatic range underscores Bulgari’s mastery of color as both an aesthetic tool and a storytelling device.
“Polychroma redefines the boundaries of craftsmanship, gemology, and goldsmithing excellence,” said Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of the Bulgari Group. “This collection not only honors Bulgari’s heritage but also reaffirms our commitment to excellence, constantly pushing the limits of what luxury can represent.”
Indeed, Polychroma blends ancient inspiration with futuristic creativity. Many of its designs take cues from history—such as the Tree of Life mosaics of Jericho or Mughal ornamentation—while embracing cutting-edge craftsmanship and architectural form. The result is a high jewelry collection that speaks to both timeless elegance and bold innovation.
Rare gems, radiant design
Among the collection’s most striking creations is the Celestial mosaic necklace, which draws inspiration from Middle Eastern mosaics and ancient artistry. It features a vibrant combination of turquoise, multicolor buff-top emeralds, tourmalines, onyx, and diamonds. Its centerpiece is a 131.21-carat spinel from Tajikistan, described by Bulgari as the fourth-largest spinel in the world and the largest of its quality.
Another standout is the Cosmic vault necklace, which pays homage to Roman domes and astral beauty. Designed by Bulgari’s creative director Lucia Silvestri, it includes a 123.35-carat sugarloaf-cut sapphire from Sri Lanka, framed by 331 buff-top sapphires and 13 diamond drops. The piece is both an architectural marvel and a celebration of celestial light.
The Polychromatic bloom necklace is described by Silvestri as “one of Polychroma’s emblems.” It centers on a 106.36-carat rubellite, flanked by a 55.52-carat peridot and a 55.11-carat tanzanite—all set in rose gold petals that echo natural beauty in abstract, bold form.
Heritage pieces and modern icons
Bulgari also pays homage to its legacy through pieces that reinterpret classic designs. One such example is the Essence of yellow Trombino ring, a modern take on the original 1928 design by Leonilde Bulgari. The updated version is centered around a more than 45-carat Asscher-cut fancy vivid yellow diamond, surrounded by step-cut diamonds and pavé settings. Bulgari describes the ring as an expression of sunlight and joy—a wearable celebration of vitality.
The Magnus emerald necklace is another major highlight. Worn by Bulgari ambassador Priyanka Chopra-Jonas on the Met Gala’s red (or rather, blue) carpet, this showstopper features a 241.06-carat emerald sourced from Colombian mines. Bulgari says it’s the most remarkable emerald the brand has ever used, both in size and quality.
Designed with architectural flair and a nod to the 1970s’ effortless elegance, the necklace pays tribute to the gem’s vibrant color and clarity. It also stands as a symbol of the maison’s continued love affair with bold, structured forms.
Reimagining high jewelry for the future
Polychroma is not just a collection; it’s a declaration of Bulgari’s evolving identity. While the house continues to honor its Roman roots, it is also embracing new territories—both creatively and culturally.
By including unexpected items like gemstone-set perfume bottles and eyewear, Bulgari expands the traditional boundaries of high jewelry. These are pieces meant not only to be admired but to be worn, lived with, and passed on as expressions of beauty and boldness. Each gem, each color, and each design within Polychroma tells its own story. But together, they form a unified vision—one that honors heritage while welcoming the future with open arms and a splash of technicolor.
As Silvestri summed it up during the unveiling, “with Polychroma, we want to express not just beauty, but emotion, freedom, and the art of daring. this is Bulgari’s soul in color.”
