The application of highlighter around the eye area is one of the most transformative yet often overlooked makeup techniques. A well-placed touch of luminous shimmer can instantly counteract darkness, create the illusion of larger, more rested eyes, and provide an overall lift to the face. The trick lies in strategic placement and choosing a formula with a fine, pearlescent pigment rather than chunky glitter, which can settle into fine lines. By focusing on the inner corners, the brow bone, and occasionally the center of the eyelid, you can harness the power of light-reflection to achieve an effortless, wide-awake glow that enhances both bare skin and a full makeup look.
Strategic Placement: Where the Light Naturally Hits
Mastering the eye highlight is all about understanding the contours of your orbital bone—the areas that naturally catch and reflect light, which also tend to be the areas most prone to shadows.
The first, and most crucial, spot is the inner corner of the eye, sometimes called the tear duct. This area often appears recessed and dark, even after applying concealer. Dabbing a small amount of highlighter here instantly neutralizes the shadows and makes the eyes appear brighter and more open. Secondly, focus on the brow bone, applying the highlighter right underneath the arch of the eyebrow. This simple step creates an illusion of a more lifted brow and a cleaner, more defined shape, drawing attention upwards. Finally, for an extra pop, you can sweep a touch of shimmer across the center of the eyelid to create a subtle, glossy-lid effect that makes the eyes appear bigger and more dimensional.
Formula Focus: Selecting the Right Eye Brightener
The ideal eye highlighter must deliver a powerful glow without emphasizing texture, which is a key consideration for the delicate, thin skin around the eye.
Makeup artists universally advise against chunky, glitter-filled formulas, which can settle unflatteringly into fine lines and creases. Instead, look for products with a fine, micro-shimmer or a pearlescent, satin finish. These diffuse light softly rather than reflecting it intensely. Cream and stick formulas are often favored for the eye area because they glide over the skin without dragging and blend seamlessly into a creamy balm that provides a dewy, natural radiance without looking frosty. Powder highlighters can also be used, but they should be incredibly finely milled to avoid a cakey appearance. Products like the Chanel Baume Essentiel Multi-Use Glow Stick are popular for their luminous, non-glittery veil.
The Application Technique: Precision for Perfection
Achieving an expert eye highlight requires precision and a light touch to ensure the glow is diffused and subtle, rather than a noticeable stripe of shimmer.
For the inner corners, the most effective tools are a small, dense pencil brush or, simply, your fingertip. Pat or press the product gently into the inner recess of the eye. You can also sweep the highlighter in an inverted ‘v’ shape, extending a small amount onto the top and bottom lash lines near the corner for a more dramatic, wide-open effect. For the brow bone, use a small, fluffy blending brush or the edge of a stick formula. Draw a thin line just below the arch and lightly blend it outwards towards the tail of the brow until any harsh lines disappear. The key is to start with a minimal amount of product and gradually build the intensity, as it is always easier to add more than to take away.
Beyond the Eye: Highlighters for an All-Over Lift
The best highlighters are often multi-purpose, allowing you to use a single, high-quality formula to illuminate other key areas of the face for a cohesive, glowing look.
The product you choose for your eyes can also be seamlessly applied to the classic high points of the face. The tops of the cheekbones receive an instant lift and emphasis when highlighted, which in turn enhances the look of your entire eye area. A dab on the Cupid’s bow (the dip above the center of your upper lip) creates the illusion of a fuller, more defined mouth. Finally, a light touch down the bridge of the nose can subtly sculpt and lengthen the face. By using the same formula across these points, you create a harmonious, dimensional look where light dances across the facial planes, culminating in a brighter, more defined eye.
