Reverse eyeliner, luminous skin, and side partings: the beauty inspiration behind Dior’s AW25 show

At Dior’s AW25 runway in the Jardin des Tuileries, Maria Grazia Chiuri fused literary imagination with modern elegance, channeling the spirit of Orlando by Virginia Woolf. But while the fashion took cues from Victorian silhouettes and classic tailoring, the beauty look backstage offered a new interpretation of timelessness—one that emphasized individuality, simplicity, and quiet strength. In a season where many designers chase maximalism and shimmer, Dior took a pause to reflect. For its Autumn/Winter 2025 show, the French house offered a lesson in understated beauty with a highly curated aesthetic that balanced softness with a subtle edge. Maria Grazia Chiuri’s collection, inspired by Virginia Woolf’s gender-defying, time-traveling novel Orlando, was not just a reinterpretation of history—it was a celebration of identity in all its modern forms.

Skin as a canvas, not a mask

“We went for a pure, but strong look,” explains Philips. “We wanted to glorify each model’s individuality.” In an industry saturated with trends like ‘glass skin’ and heavy contouring, the Dior AW25 beauty approach was refreshingly honest. Skin wasn’t glossed to an artificial sheen, nor sculpted to perfection. Instead, the makeup team focused on texture and radiance without the use of highlighter or contour products.

two models showcasing highfashion outfits in a minimalist setting

The skin prep ritual began with Dior Capture Le Sérum, followed by Dior Capture Totale Hyalushot for the eye area. The base was kept natural using Dior Forever Skin Perfect, a lightweight complexion product that evens out the skin without masking it, with Dior Forever Skin Correct used sparingly where needed. Lips were equally subdued and soft, with a touch of Dior Addict Lip Glow Oil patted on and blotted to eliminate shine—leaving behind just a whisper of color and hydration.

A bold statement in reverse

While the skin and lips remained understated, the eyes told a different story. The central beauty statement of the show came in the form of “reverse eyeliner,” where black kohl was applied to the inner corners of the eyes rather than along the lash line. It was a subtle but impactful move—unexpected, mysterious, and full of quiet drama.

Using Diorshow On Stage Crayon 099 Black, Philips created an intense focal point that deepened the models’ gazes without overwhelming their natural features. The liner gave dimension and structure, allowing individuality to shine through without resorting to uniformity.

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Brows were left nearly untouched, gently brushed into place to maintain the models’ unique shapes and textures. This choice further underscored the message of embracing personal features rather than editing them away.

Hair that whispered nostalgia

Guided by renowned hairstylist Guido Palau, the hair direction brought yet another layer of depth to the show’s narrative. Each model wore a severe side parting with wispy bangs that evoked the elegance of another era—while also feeling unmistakably contemporary. The lengths were tied low at the nape into soft ponytails, with a few strands left deliberately loose to escape and frame the face.

“There’s a sense of softness and structure all at once,” Palau shared. “The partings are clean and decisive, but the overall effect remains romantic.” This blend of precision and fluidity paralleled the way Chiuri merged Victorian tailoring with modern silhouettes.

Redefining timelessness

fashion model wearing a layered outfit featuring ruffles and a blazer

Dior’s AW25 show stood as a reminder that beauty doesn’t have to shout to be heard. In fact, it was the quiet restraint—the intentional soft touches, the non-uniform finishes, the homage to individuality—that gave the look its power. By taking references from the past and filtering them through a distinctly modern lens, the show asked deeper questions about identity and expression: How do we define beauty today? And more importantly, who gets to define it?

As Peter Philips said, it wasn’t about erasing imperfections or creating clones—it was about elevating what already exists. With luminous, real skin, minimal interference, and a daring twist on eyeliner, Dior’s AW25 beauty look delivered a masterclass in timeless confidence.

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