In his menswear debut for Dries Van Noten, Julian Klausner proposes a new uniform—one that’s intellectual, joyful, and refreshingly unbound by old rules.
A debut that speaks in color
Julian Klausner’s Spring 2026 menswear debut at Dries Van Noten wasn’t just a runway show—it was a vibrant manifesto. As guests gathered at Paris Men’s Fashion Week, they weren’t met with the beige restraint that often dominates modern menswear. Instead, Klausner delivered a collection that was bold, unbothered, and bursting with print, pattern, and pleasure.
At just 33, Klausner steps into the role of creative director following years of close collaboration with Van Noten on womenswear. His understanding of the house’s codes—opulence without excess, artistry without pretension—was evident throughout. But this was not a tribute. It was a turning point. Gone were the tropes of quiet luxury. In their place: fluid shapes, gleaming fabrics, and colors that vibrated with intention.
From the first look—a red jacquard jacket, impeccably tailored but with an easy slouch—it was clear this wasn’t about gimmicks. Klausner’s eye is too trained, too precise. His garments moved with grace, never stiffness. Even the more theatrical pieces, like the beaded bombers and satin car coats, felt wearable, lived-in, and deeply considered.
Rewriting the rules of power dressing
One of the collection’s standout moments came in the form of a silk sarong, styled not for the beach or the spa, but as a core part of a weekday wardrobe. Paired with a structured shirt and softly tailored blazer, the piece felt less like a provocation and more like a revelation. Klausner asked a simple question—why can’t elegance be joyful?—and then answered it with a look after look that suggested it can.
This wasn’t a collection made to challenge for the sake of it. It was designed to expand the conversation. Florals clashed harmoniously with acid brights. Silk jockey stripes, reminiscent of vintage postcards, were layered with a surprising logic. Even the most “out-there” combinations made you stop and reconsider why such pairings had ever been off-limits to begin with. In many ways, Klausner’s menswear debut redefines what power dressing could look like today. Less about dominance, more about expression. Less stiffness, more softness. There’s strength in color, in contrast, in confidence—and he knows it.
Not just for men
Though the runway was technically menswear, much of what Klausner presented defied easy categorization. Striped shirts with feminine volume, wide-legged trousers cut for comfort and charisma, cummerbunds that offered a flash of elegance beneath tailored coats—these were garments made for anyone with style, not just for those shopping the men’s section.
That cross-pollination is by design. Klausner isn’t interested in gatekeeping fashion by gender. His designs feel inclusive, open-ended, and ripe for reinterpretation. The idea that fashion should be fun, flexible, and fluid runs through the entire collection. A woman in one of his jacquard coats would feel just as empowered as the man it was originally designed for. The thrill is in the mix.
It’s this sense of play—executed with polish—that makes the collection so compelling. Where many designers lean into shock or nostalgia for impact, Klausner prefers a knowing wink. His work feels like a conversation between generations, cultures, and identities. It’s not about breaking rules for the sake of rebellion. It’s about dissolving them entirely—and doing so with grace.
A confident new chapter
Dries Van Noten has always been a house rooted in quiet sophistication, but Klausner brings a more extroverted spirit without losing that signature intellect. His Spring 2026 collection wasn’t loud for the sake of volume; it was expressive, thoughtful, and—above all—joyful.
At a time when so much of fashion is retreating into the safe and silent, Klausner is offering something rare: a reminder that style can be both smart and celebratory. His designs are wearable but not boring, polished but never sterile. And in doing so, he’s giving a new generation permission to dress with freedom—and feel something while doing it.
As his tenure at Dries Van Noten begins, one thing is clear: this is not the revival of a legacy. It’s the evolution of one. And if this debut is any indication, the future of menswear might just be brighter, bolder, and infinitely more expressive.
