Blind climber Jesse Dufton has achieved an extraordinary feat, becoming the first visually impaired person to lead a climb of the 500-foot rockface El Matador on Devil’s Tower in Wyoming. Despite his degenerative eye condition, Dufton, guided by his wife Molly, tackled the challenging monolith as a testament to defying his genetic fate.
A Daring Ascent and a Unique Perspective
Jesse Dufton, who has a degenerative eye condition called cone-rod dystrophy (a group of inherited eye disorders causing progressive vision loss, primarily affecting central and color vision), is able to perceive only “flashing lights.” Yet, he led the climb up the imposing El Matador, relying on his other senses and an incredible partnership with his wife, Molly Dufton, who provided crucial guidance via a headset from the ground.
Dufton’s ascent involved wedging small pieces of metal into the rock for protection against falls, navigating tiny handholds, and jamming his legs into cracks. While he wasn’t “terrified,” he admitted to being “exhausted” on what he called “the hardest route I’ve ever attempted.” He felt the “whizzing” of birds below and gusts of wind, providing a non-visual sense of his extreme height. His fear, he explains, is tied to the perceived danger and the quality of his gear, rather than the height itself.
A Lifetime of Climbing and Unwavering Partnership
Dufton began climbing at age two with his father. By 11, he had only 20% vision, and now at 39, he only has light perception. Despite this, he continues to push boundaries, having previously climbed Scotland’s famed Old Man of Hoy and established a multi-pitch route in Morocco. His ascent of El Matador, which took him and Molly just one day, involved navigating the monolith’s cracks, columns, and overhangs. Their journey is documented in the newly released film, “Climbing Blind II.”
Dufton approaches climbing as a way of “giving fate the middle finger,” refusing to let his genetic condition dictate his life choices. He provocatively suggests that “crossing the road on the way into the office is more dangerous” because he has no control over unseen cars, whereas in climbing, calculated risks are taken with preparation and mitigation.
His wife, Molly, a climber herself for over 20 years, expressed awe at his abilities, calling some of his climbs “insane.” Their partnership, built over 20 years since meeting at university, relies on a unique two-way radio system. Molly guides him on the route’s line and gear placements, focusing on crucial information. Dufton, in turn, relies heavily on touch and the sensitivity of his climbing shoes to feel footholds, complemented by his “incredible” endurance, which he considers his superpower. Their bond, essential for any climbing team, is deepened by their life partnership, as they literally place their lives in each other’s hands. They’ve logged over 2,000 routes together, rarely arguing, as the mental demands of climbing consume all their focus.
