Following a two-year hiatus from the official New York Fashion Week calendar, Christopher John Rogers made a triumphant return with his Collection 015, aptly titled “Exhale.” Presented in a Brooklyn venue, the show was less a display of clothes and more a deliberate act of defiant joy and self-expression, serving as a chromatic and voluminous counterpoint to the prevailing global heaviness. Rogers, celebrated for his unparalleled mastery of color, used the collection to encourage a pursuit of personal happiness and autonomy through dress. The 38 looks—a remarkably focused number for the designer—were a vibrant mix of meticulously tailored wool suiting, dramatic boned gowns, and playful separates, all punctuated by his signature Slime Green, Tomato Red, and Curaçao Blue palette. This collection underscored Rogers’s commitment to thoughtful, idiosyncratic fashion that intentionally laughs in the face of fleeting trends.
A Call to Action: Defiance and Individuality
The underlying ethos of the “Exhale” collection was rooted in the designer’s desire to create space for individual freedom and expression during a challenging global zeitgeist.
In his show notes, Rogers penned a powerful mission statement: “In a time when identity and personhood are globally challenged, the pursuit of one’s own happiness and autonomy can feel like a daunting but essential endeavor.” This collection was conceived as a testament to that spirit of defiance, offering “delectable, idiosyncratic inventions” designed to seamlessly integrate into a client’s wardrobe. The show was not just a commercial presentation; it was a deeply personal, almost “selfish exercise” in pursuing what is fulfilling and authentic. By choosing to return to the official calendar, Rogers aimed to re-engage with his peers and “say something about the zeitgeist,” albeit in his own specific, joyously maximalist way.
This intention resulted in clothing that felt magical, whimsical, and playful, yet remained grounded in a thoughtful artistry. The entire atmosphere surrounding the show—which included an afterparty where fashion A-listers danced and celebrated—was described as a meditation on joy, offering a much-needed release from the seriousness of the world outside.
Reinventing the Color Wheel and Texture Play
Christopher John Rogers is universally acclaimed for his ingenious use of color, and “Exhale” proved to be a masterful evolution of his chromatic storytelling.
While the designer always delivers “supremely elegant dopamine dressing,” this collection introduced daring, unexpected combinations. Powerful shades of red—including maraschino cherry, merlot, and salmon—were a through line, constantly remixed with the electric brights the brand is known for: Slime Green, Tomato Red, and Curaçao Blue. The collection took inspiration from artists like Hélio Oiticica, utilizing monochromatic blocks that flowed into contrasting shades, making the clothing recall paint brushes moving across a canvas.
Beyond color, Rogers focused on texture and silhouette, often utilizing traditional American fabrics in ingenuitive ways, such as matte cotton piqués and twills alongside rich wool tailoring. Brushed textured coats, “Muppet”-like mohair dusters, and pieces touched by the patina of metallic fabrics all lent an upscale, sometimes surreal, finish to the playfulness. Even the styling, which included Christian Louboutin stilettos, was intentional, using the red soles to draw out corresponding red details, stitching, or buttons on the garments.
The Architecture of Shape and Silhouette
The Fall 2025 collection presented a wide spectrum of silhouettes, balancing dramatic volume and architectural complexity with a newfound sense of ease and coziness.
The collection was characterized by voluminous shapes that still felt impeccably tailored. Looks included corseted mini-dresses, chic tailored peplums, and skirts that retained the beloved “strawberry shape” volume that first put the brand on the map. The use of sumptuous layers, boning, and ruffles defined the eveningwear, with bubble skirts and bold patterns informing his signature drama. Crucially, the collection also focused on highly wearable separates. Tailored suiting was present, featuring details like button accents at the bottom of pants and the back of coats, lending a cheeky nod to the inner child. Furthermore, the designer incorporated adjustable elements like buttons or ties, allowing the wearer to personalize the garment to their body—a subtle yet important nod to autonomy and inclusivity. The final look—a long, monochromatic brown wool coat with matching trousers—was perhaps the most minimalistic of the entire show, subtly confirming Rogers’s ability to showcase constraint alongside his signature exhilaration.
The Confidence of an Independent Voice
Rogers’s return solidified his status as a defiant independent American designer whose work is a testament to intention over trend, appealing to a customer who values lasting quality and individuality.
The 38-look collection, which was noted as being his smallest yet, speaks to the designer’s commitment to being increasingly intentional about his output. Unlike many brands that rely on rapid trend cycling, Rogers’s fashion is defined by a sense of permanence and confidence. He maintains that what he does is “risky as it isn’t based on trends,” a philosophy that attracts customers who are seeking clothes that make them feel good and bring them to life with artistry. The designer has also been lauded for his dedication to size inclusivity, demonstrating that his commitment to joy and autonomy extends beyond the runway into the retail experience. In an industry often criticized for following a loud, homogenous commercial agenda, Christopher John Rogers continues to prove that originality, thoughtfulness, and an unapologetic celebration of color can be the most powerful statement of all.
