Willy Chavarria, the two-time CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year, has officially stepped into a new domain with the launch of his first full womenswear collection for Spring/Summer 2026. While the designer has long counted fashion icons like Tracee Ellis Ross and Billie Eilish among his fans, this season marks a definitive shift from oversized menswear to a sculptural, undeniably feminine silhouette. Debuted during Paris Fashion Week Men’s, the collection—titled “Huron”—is a deeply personal homage to the matriarchs who shaped Chavarria’s world. As “Magazine World” explores, this is not just a commercial expansion; it is the realization of a childhood dream, where the strength of the women in his life is finally woven into the very fabric of his brand.
The Architecture of Feminine Strength
Chavarria’s foray into womenswear is characterized by what he calls a “form follows function” philosophy, but with a sharp, protective edge. Working closely with his first head of design, Mark Cross alum Rebeca Mendoza, Chavarria has crafted a wardrobe for women who “can’t afford to look soft.” The silhouette is defined by nipped waists, strong shoulders, and sculptural blazers that project a sense of power. “I want our woman to look beautiful and feminine, but also like she could beat you up,” Chavarria notes—a sentiment echoed in the collection’s “Nuevo Staple” blazers and two-piece leather sets.
This aesthetic is perfectly encapsulated in the “Chavela” shirt, a garment that emphasizes a defined waist and broad shoulders to create an immediate aura of authority. The collection moves away from the traditional tropes of fragility often associated with Spring/Summer lines, opting instead for technicolor-bright cloqué gowns and thinly skived leather pencil skirts. By prioritizing structure and resilience, Chavarria and Mendoza are speaking to a contemporary woman who values clothing as a tool of self-expression and armor, rather than a performance for the male gaze.
Huron: A Personal Geography
The collection’s title, “Huron,” refers to the Mexican-American farming community in California where Chavarria grew up. This personal history is the heartbeat of the designs, drawing directly from the formidable wardrobes of his mother, aunts, and grandmothers. Mendoza’s grandmother’s 1970s Mexico City style also served as a primary reference point, resulting in pieces that feel both nostalgic and fiercely modern. It is a collection that honors the “original muses” of Chavarria’s youth—the women who populated the “dress books” he filled with sketches as a four-year-old.
This connection to his roots ensures that the collection feels grounded in reality despite its high-fashion execution. The use of leather—from trench-style dresses to oversized clutches—adds a tactile toughness that mirrors the grit of his upbringing. However, Chavarria’s genius lies in his ability to elevate these rugged inspirations into “practical elegance.” A leather dress is designed to move with a woman’s changing body over time, reflecting a commitment to longevity and the lived experience of his customers. “Huron” is a love letter to the endurance of women, translated into the language of luxury.
Accessories for the Modern Protagonist
No Chavarria look is complete without a definitive accessory statement, and the Spring/Summer 2026 line introduces a range of pieces that carry the same “matriarchal might” as the ready-to-wear. Capacious bolero bags and totes featuring the designer’s signature “W” strapping are designed for the woman on the move, blending utilitarian needs with high-fashion allure. The inclusion of staff keys as a recurring motif adds a touch of narrative intrigue, suggesting a woman who is the gatekeeper of her own world.
These leather goods were designed to enhance the wearer’s power rather than overpower her silhouette. The oversized clutches, in particular, serve as sculptural anchors for the collection’s more fluid gowns, providing a necessary contrast between the soft and the structured. For Chavarria, an accessory is not just a finishing touch; it is a functional component of the “armor” he is building. As his female customer base continues to grow—already making up 40 percent of his online sales—these practical yet elegant pieces are set to become the next “it” items of the season.
A Decade in the Making
While it may seem like a sudden pivot for a menswear titan, Chavarria’s entry into womenswear has been a decade in the making. He waited ten years to ensure he had the right creative partner in Mendoza, allowing him to finally realize the glam childhood sketches that first ignited his passion for fashion. This patience has paid off in a collection that feels fully realized and authentic to his brand’s DNA. By refusing to rush the process, Chavarria has avoided the “gender-swapping” pitfalls that often plague menswear designers moving into womenswear, instead creating something that feels distinct and necessary.
The debut has already garnered praise from across the industry, with critics noting the “rare creative shorthand” between Chavarria and Mendoza. Their shared inspiration from Almodóvar heroines and fierce family protagonists has resulted in a vision that feels cohesive and emotionally resonant. As the brand continues to expand its reach, this womenswear line will undoubtedly become a central pillar of the Chavarria legacy. It is a testament to the fact that true creativity knows no bounds, and that the strongest fashion is often born from the deepest personal connections.
The Future of the Chavarria Woman
As the Spring/Summer 2026 season unfolds, the Chavarria woman is emerging as a definitive icon of the year. She is a figure of “liberated elegance,” unconcerned with traditional standards of softness and instead embracing a beauty that is rooted in strength. Following the success of this debut, the fashion world is already looking toward the Fall/Winter 2026 collections to see how Chavarria will evolve this narrative. With a growing list of celebrity admirers and a retail presence that is rapidly expanding, the “Willy Chavarria Womenswear Era” is off to a formidable start.
For “Magazine World,” this collection represents the perfect intersection of heritage and innovation. It reminds us that fashion is at its most powerful when it honors those who came before us while looking firmly toward the future. Chavarria has taken the lessons of the matriarchs of Huron and turned them into a global style statement, proving that “matriarchal might” is the ultimate luxury.
