The unveiling of the Loewe Spring 2026 collection marked one of the most significant transitions in contemporary luxury fashion, as Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez—the acclaimed duo behind Proenza Schouler—stepped in to chart a course post-Jonathan Anderson. This inaugural collection was not a timid attempt to mimic the past but a forceful declaration of intent, rooted in the enduring legacy of Spanish craftsmanship while infusing the house with their signature sophisticated and sensually modern aesthetic. The result was a vibrant, meticulously constructed dialogue between Loewe’s sculptural heritage and the designers’ penchant for bold color, strategic draping, and unexpected, architectural silhouettes. They successfully embraced the brand’s 180 years of history, translating its commitment to craft into a dynamic, eye-catching vision for the future of everyday luxury.
The Dawn of a New Artistic Directorship
The shadow cast by Jonathan Anderson’s transformative, decade-long tenure at Loewe presented a daunting challenge, yet the arrival of Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez ushered in a fresh, optimistic energy that felt perfectly calibrated for the Spring 2026 season. The industry narrative surrounding this season was overwhelmingly centered on “new beginnings,” and the duo embraced this momentum with a collection that was both a respectful nod to the past and a confident stride into a new era.
McCollough and Hernandez articulated their mission as taking on codes shaped over 180 years, defined “above all by an enduring commitment to craft and its Spanish identity.” Their task, they explained, was to carry this spirit forward, interpreting it through their own distinct, modern lens. The debut was therefore less about erasing history and more about initiating a dialogue where their established design language could meet and elevate the venerable foundations of the Spanish maison. This balancing act—honoring craft while injecting boldness—defined the tone for the entire show.
Honoring the Craft and Spanish Identity
At the very core of Loewe lies an unparalleled commitment to leatherwork and artisanal skill, a foundation that predates the very concept of seasonal fashion cycles. McCollough and Hernandez demonstrated immediate reverence for this heritage, making craft the palpable texture and structure of the collection. Every piece, from the sculptural leather garments to the knitwear, spoke to the savoir-faire of the house’s ateliers.
The designers integrated this mastery into their own strengths, focusing heavily on artisanal construction and three-dimensional shaping. Leather was not merely used as a material but molded into rigid, bell-shaped mini dresses and fluid, asymmetrical pieces that demanded absolute precision. By emphasizing the tactile and technical mastery of the fabrics and construction, the duo solidified their promise to keep the Spanish identity of the brand—which is intrinsically linked to the material luxury of leather goods—at the forefront of their creative vision.
The Geometry of Bolder Silhouettes
The Loewe Spring 2026 collection was a masterclass in re-calibrating the house’s iconic silhouettes through the lens of modern architectural forms. McCollough and Hernandez experimented heavily with shape, moving away from some of Anderson’s more conceptual forms and grounding the designs in a sophisticated, sensual wearability. This was achieved through dramatic and often unexpected use of volume and proportion.
Key silhouettes included bell-shaped leather dresses that introduced a structured, feminine geometry, and dramatic asymmetrical draping that gave movement and fluidity to the fabric. Furthermore, the designers employed strategic pleating and seams that occasionally revealed unexpected pops of contrasting color, adding a subtle visual dynamic to otherwise clean lines. This experimentation demonstrated a commitment to pushing technical boundaries while retaining a sense of polished, urban sophistication, showing that the new Loewe is not afraid of sculptural complexity and daring cuts.
A Pop of Color in a Quiet Luxury World
One of the most immediate and defining characteristics of the new chapter was the injection of a bolder, more optimistic color palette. For several seasons, fashion has been dominated by the restrained, neutral tones of the “quiet luxury” trend. Loewe Spring 2026 served as a clear counterpoint, embracing playful stripes and a vibrant array of colors that signaled a shift toward more eye-catching, statement-making daily wear.
This colorful sensibility extended dramatically into the accessories, which were an undeniable focal point of the debut. The duo, known for their ability to create highly desirable and often viral handbags, introduced new iterations that leaned into this boldness, including a splashy, logo-clad tote presented in bright primary red and blue colorways. These accessories are poised to lead the movement towards bolder essentials, affirming the designers’ understanding that the financial engine of a luxury house often rests on its leather goods and their ability to capture viral attention while remaining impeccably crafted.
The Melding of Sculptural Heritage and Modern Sensuality
Ultimately, the Spring 2026 collection succeeded because it achieved a skillful and harmonious melding of two distinct design worlds. On one side was the craft-centric, often cerebral and sculptural realm inherited from the Azzedine Alaïa-era history and Anderson’s conceptualism. On the other was the inherent aesthetic of McCollough and Hernandez: sophisticated, sensually modern, and driven by a precise understanding of the contemporary woman’s body and desires.
The result was a highly cohesive yet eclectic vision. The clothes felt inherently luxurious due to their materials and execution, yet approachable due to their modern cuts and energy. The debut affirmed that the new creative directors are not just stewards of the house’s legacy but active contributors, interpreting the enduring commitment to the “body in motion” with a powerful sense of optimism and color that promises a globally renowned and exciting future for Loewe.
