On a crisp day in Edinburgh, there is no better way to discover a new side of the city than by hopping on its recently extended tram network. After a 67-year hiatus, the trams have returned to Leith, transforming this historic port district and opening up parts of the Scottish capital once little-trammeled by visitors. The new 2.91-mile route sweeps north from the city’s heart, down a revitalized Leith Walk, to meet the Firth of Forth. This day-long journey invites you to explore a landscape where old warehouses have been reborn as Michelin-starred restaurants, where history floats in the harbor, and where the air carries the promise of a dram of whisky and the fresh scent of the sea.
Start at the Source: Picardy Place
Begin your day at the tram stop at Picardy Place, a recently remodeled plaza that serves as the gateway to Leith Walk. Before you embark, take a moment to look for the statue of Sherlock Holmes, a nod to the fact that this area is the birthplace of Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, the creator of the famous fictional detective. If the weather is clear, consider a short walk to Calton Hill, where you can get a stunning panoramic view of the route you are about to take, stretching all the way down to the Firth of Forth. The vantage point also offers a spectacular look at other city highlights, including Arthur’s Seat and Edinburgh Castle, setting the stage for your day of exploration.
A Culinary Kickstart: Balfour Street
Your first stop on the tram is Balfour Street, a perfect launching point for exploring Easter Road. This area has been reborn as a culinary hotspot, earning it the nickname “Feaster Road.” The pavements are now wider and bustling with new cafes, bars, and restaurants, making it an ideal place to grab a delicious breakfast and a cup of coffee. You’ll find options to suit any taste, from a sweet bite at Écosse Éclair to a vegan treat at Plant Bae. And for a uniquely Scottish souvenir, look for Edinburgh Honey Co’s whisky-infused nectar, a delicious taste of the region to take home with you.
Green Spaces and Good Vibes: Foot of the Walk
Hop off at the Foot of the Walk stop, where the urban landscape gives way to the leafy grounds of Leith Links. Originally designed as a golf course, this historic park is now a public green space perfect for a leisurely stroll. The area retains its vibrant, creative spirit, and as the day winds down, you can make your way back to this area to experience Leith’s thriving arts and culture scene. The much-loved venue Leith Depot is a local gem that stages live music and club nights, offering great-value food and drinks in a cozy, welcoming atmosphere. It’s a perfect spot to enjoy some authentic Scottish hospitality.
Michelin Stars by the Shore: The Shore
A short walk from The Shore tram stop takes you to the heart of old Leith. This historic quay, once bustling with ships from the Baltic states and Low Countries, has been transformed into a hub of modern sophistication. Many of the area’s old merchant homes and warehouses have been lovingly converted into cool cafes and a remarkable collection of Michelin-starred restaurants. Here you can savor fine dining at places like Martin Wishart, which serves modern European cuisine, or at Heron, where chefs Sam Yorke and Tomás Gormley get creative with Scotland’s natural larder. The culinary scene here is a testament to the area’s incredible revitalization, blending its rich maritime past with a forward-looking, contemporary spirit.
A Floating Palace and a Vertical Distillery: Ocean Terminal
Exit the tram at the Ocean Terminal stop to explore the former industrial docklands, which are now home to a fascinating mix of history and innovation. The star attraction here is the Royal Yacht Britannia, a floating museum that showcases the vessel’s lifetime of service to the British monarchy. Stepping aboard is like entering a time capsule, with the ship’s elegant staterooms and decks preserved exactly as they were during its voyages. Alternatively, you can take a tour of the new, neighboring Port of Leith Distillery, the UK’s first vertical distillery. Here, you can admire the stunning view over the Firth of Forth from its unique building and savor a well-earned dram of whisky.
The Salty Air of a Seaside Village: Newhaven
The journey’s end arrives with the fresh, tangy sea salt in the air and the familiar cry of seagulls overhead. Your final stop is Newhaven, once an independent fishing village and now a charming district of Edinburgh. The historic harbor is a tranquil space where shellfish boats still bob on the water, providing a sense of timeless tradition. It’s the perfect place to grab a bite to eat, whether you prefer classic fish and chips from The Fishmarket or a more upscale meal of shellfish and fizz at Loch Fyne. It’s a fitting end to a day that takes you from the city’s historic core to its seaside edge, proving that Edinburgh’s magic is not just in its famous landmarks, but in its quiet, coastal corners as well.
