The debut collection of Jonathan Anderson for Christian Dior marked a pivotal moment for the iconic French house, and the backstage beauty look, conceptualized by Creative and Image Director Peter Philips, was a direct reflection of this fresh, new chapter. Eschewing bold statements like red lipstick or graphic eyeliner, Philips focused entirely on “glorifying each girl’s natural beauty” through a look he describes as a ‘fresh start’—the sun breaking through the clouds after a storm. The resultant aesthetic was one of luminous nude makeup, prioritizing skin glow and subtle contouring over heavy color. Relying on hero products like Dior Forever Skin Glow foundation and the Dior Backstage Rosy Glow Blush Stick, the makeup became an architectural complement to the complex, remixed codes of Anderson’s clothing, ensuring the focus remained on the fashion’s legacy and daring commentary.
The Architectural Nude: Embracing Luminous Skin
The primary directive for the Dior Spring/Summer 2026 makeup was to create a sense of luminosity and fresh beginning that wouldn’t distract from the fashion or the dramatic opening film. Peter Philips and his team consciously opted for a nude makeup look, emphasizing glow and skin tone over color statement. This choice was deeply rooted in the show’s narrative, where the opening video—a montage featuring slasher and horror elements—needed a visual palate cleanser once the models began walking. As Philips noted, a strong red lip or heavy eyeliner could have appeared “almost scary” or “evil” in that context.
To achieve this flawless, skin-first finish, the process began with meticulous skincare preparation using the Capture Totale serum and moisturizer. This ensured the models’ natural complexions were plumped and radiant before any makeup was applied. The foundation of the look was the Dior Forever Skin Glow foundation and concealer, which was applied in thin, carefully blended layers. The goal was not to mask the skin, but to elevate its natural texture and embrace a “spring feeling,” making the entire look feel light, effortless, and entirely focused on pure, unadulterated radiance.
The Defining Softness: Strategic Blush and Lip Balm
While the makeup was categorized as nude, strategic points of subtle color were introduced to define the face without adding visual weight. The key product for this nuance was the Dior Backstage Rosy Glow Blush Stick in either Berry or Rosewood, selected based on the model’s specific skin tone. The blush was applied sparingly and blended seamlessly with the foundation using a soft brush, creating a thin, sheer “nuance of color on the cheeks.” This technique ensures the glow and softness are the primary takeaways, lending a sculptural quality to the face that supports the architectural nature of Anderson’s garments.
For the lips, the desire for softness and hydration over pigment was absolute. The lips were treated with Dior Addict Lip Glow Butter in Toffee. This choice delivered a beautiful, subtle sheen and deep nourishment without the intensity of a lipstick or the high-gloss of a traditional lacquered lip. The combination of the sheer blush and the subtly tinted lip balm perfectly reinforced the overall theme: a new page, a fresh start, and a beauty that is intrinsically healthy and effortless rather than overtly applied.
The No-Mascara Rule: Context and Intention
One of the most notable elements of the Dior look was the deliberate decision to skip mascara entirely—a choice that reflects a broader, highly intentional trend in runway beauty. Instead of applying mascara, Philips curled the lashes and used the darkest shade from the Diorshow 5 Couleurs palette, placing it only into the roots of the lashes. This technique provided a subtle intensity and definition at the lash line without making the eyes look “too made up.”
Philips explained that this choice is deeply contextual, drawing a clear line between a catwalk look and a front-row or red-carpet appearance. He argues that mascara often makes a look “more sensual, a bit more sexy,” which, when paired with the elaborate lace, sheer dresses, and complex architectural framing of the Dior collection, could have inadvertently reduced the fashion to “lingerie.” By removing the heavy, sensual focus of mascara, the makeup allowed the artistic and conceptual nature of the clothing to take center stage, proving that even a single product decision can dramatically alter the meaning and intention of an entire runway statement.
The New Designer Era: Effortless Collaboration
Peter Philips’ work on the Spring/Summer 2026 show was the first collaboration with new designer Jonathan Anderson, and the process was described as “effortless” and highly communicative. Anderson initiated the creative dialogue by sharing a portfolio of Philips’ past work, indicating a deep respect for the makeup director’s aesthetic range. This foundational alignment—a shared vision for a clean, fresh-faced look—made the collaboration seamless.
The unified vision, dictated in part by the mood and tension of the pre-show film, confirmed that a “big makeup statement” would be distracting and inappropriate. For both the designer and the makeup director, the challenge was to create a look that was technically perfect, glorifying the model’s individual beauty, while remaining subtle enough to act as a supportive framework for the debut collection. This quiet confidence in the skin-first approach successfully ushered in a new era of beauty at Dior, one where sophistication lies in the nuanced glow and the power of less, not more.
